Frequently Asked Questions
Theses are some of the questions I am asked most often. If you have more questions feel free to visit my contact page! Thank you.
*** For any and all questions regarding show potential, please read the ARBA 2011-2015 Standard of Perfection. It is my understanding that both 4H and ARBA standards are the same and from the ARBA SOP, however, depending on the area you are in and the event in which you are participating, DQ's are dealt with differently. Also, while I may see faults that are not necessarily considered disqualificaitons for show, there may be something I miss. I am still learning about the world of show, and strongly encourage you to do your own research with regard to the topic if this is something you are interested in. Thank you.
*Can rabbit be litter box trained?
The answer is YES. However, it takes time, patience and understanding. Rabbits are instinctively neat creatures. The easiest way I have found to litter box train my rabbits is to let them explore their environment/cage for at least a day or two. After marking his/her territory by pooping EVERYWHERE, a bunny will typically find a spot he/she prefers to eliminate. This is where you will place the litterbox. Good filling is shredded paper, recycled material, or some woodchips (no cedar). There are also cat litter pellets made of recycled newspaper that can be purchased at a pet store. In no time (well, a couple weeks) your bunny should be using the box. Please understand all bunnies react differently to new homes, owners, noises, etc. and may fall off the potty wagon at any time. Have patience and work with your pet. Raising an animal is a commitment!
*Do rabbits bite?
Yes! So do some humans, and the sweetest of dogs. If a bunny feels threatened or intruded upon it is possible that the animal may bite. I do not get bitten by my bunnies. I interact with, pet, feed, and hold them each every day. If left alone too long, you bunny can develop cage aggression, and not enjoy your hand entering in to do whatever you may be doing. Always talk to your rabbit, and pet his/her head before doing anything else in the cage. This is a similar concept to knocking on your teenager's bedroom door! Never leave your bunny without human contact for days on end... not only is this not fair, but it is risky, as your bunny my become stand-offish. Also, be sure to always wash your hands of any food scents before handling your rabbit. Your fingers may smell delicious, and what bunny can resist? Also, if a bunny bites, never hit, spank or yell at the animal. Ask yourself why it happened, and instead, take proper measures to make sure it won't happen again.
*Is it true rabbits have heart attacks when scared?
A rabbit is a predatory animal. As a natural defense, a rabbit may have a heart attack if it feels it is going to be killed. For example, a rabbit being chased may fear for it's life and therefore have a heart attack. This is not to say every time you go to catch your rabbit if running free you are going to scare it to death. However, it should caution you to be slow and careful in your movements and words while interacting with your bunny. On a side note: I advise you to NEVER CHASE your bunny. If (s)he is loose and you need to catch him/her, set up baracades, and move slowly, guiding the bunny in the direction you want. If you chase your bunny, you risk ruining the trust-bond you have created.
*What type of cage is best for my rabbit?
I personally prefer hutches for their size, durability, weather fastness, and easy cleaning. However, any cage you choose could work out well. Some things to consider: How will your bunny stay safe from other animals and weather? Are the bars narrow enough to keep your bunny safely inside? (I have seen a 12 week old bunny squeeze through the bars of a dog crate.) If using a plastic bottom cage: how often are you able to clean the bottom of the cage to prevent sore hocks, hutch burn, etc.? If using a wire bottom cage: Can the bunny's nails or toes become stuck in the width of the wire, is the wire sturdy and not sagging, and what will you put on the wire for a soft resting place? I use cardboard, plywood, baskets and plastic castles for my bunnies to rest on. Whatever you choose, just make sure it is working for you and your rabbit, and if you need a change, you can always start over... just don't give up on your rabbit!
*******UNDER CONSTRUCTION!*******
*** For any and all questions regarding show potential, please read the ARBA 2011-2015 Standard of Perfection. It is my understanding that both 4H and ARBA standards are the same and from the ARBA SOP, however, depending on the area you are in and the event in which you are participating, DQ's are dealt with differently. Also, while I may see faults that are not necessarily considered disqualificaitons for show, there may be something I miss. I am still learning about the world of show, and strongly encourage you to do your own research with regard to the topic if this is something you are interested in. Thank you.
*Can rabbit be litter box trained?
The answer is YES. However, it takes time, patience and understanding. Rabbits are instinctively neat creatures. The easiest way I have found to litter box train my rabbits is to let them explore their environment/cage for at least a day or two. After marking his/her territory by pooping EVERYWHERE, a bunny will typically find a spot he/she prefers to eliminate. This is where you will place the litterbox. Good filling is shredded paper, recycled material, or some woodchips (no cedar). There are also cat litter pellets made of recycled newspaper that can be purchased at a pet store. In no time (well, a couple weeks) your bunny should be using the box. Please understand all bunnies react differently to new homes, owners, noises, etc. and may fall off the potty wagon at any time. Have patience and work with your pet. Raising an animal is a commitment!
*Do rabbits bite?
Yes! So do some humans, and the sweetest of dogs. If a bunny feels threatened or intruded upon it is possible that the animal may bite. I do not get bitten by my bunnies. I interact with, pet, feed, and hold them each every day. If left alone too long, you bunny can develop cage aggression, and not enjoy your hand entering in to do whatever you may be doing. Always talk to your rabbit, and pet his/her head before doing anything else in the cage. This is a similar concept to knocking on your teenager's bedroom door! Never leave your bunny without human contact for days on end... not only is this not fair, but it is risky, as your bunny my become stand-offish. Also, be sure to always wash your hands of any food scents before handling your rabbit. Your fingers may smell delicious, and what bunny can resist? Also, if a bunny bites, never hit, spank or yell at the animal. Ask yourself why it happened, and instead, take proper measures to make sure it won't happen again.
*Is it true rabbits have heart attacks when scared?
A rabbit is a predatory animal. As a natural defense, a rabbit may have a heart attack if it feels it is going to be killed. For example, a rabbit being chased may fear for it's life and therefore have a heart attack. This is not to say every time you go to catch your rabbit if running free you are going to scare it to death. However, it should caution you to be slow and careful in your movements and words while interacting with your bunny. On a side note: I advise you to NEVER CHASE your bunny. If (s)he is loose and you need to catch him/her, set up baracades, and move slowly, guiding the bunny in the direction you want. If you chase your bunny, you risk ruining the trust-bond you have created.
*What type of cage is best for my rabbit?
I personally prefer hutches for their size, durability, weather fastness, and easy cleaning. However, any cage you choose could work out well. Some things to consider: How will your bunny stay safe from other animals and weather? Are the bars narrow enough to keep your bunny safely inside? (I have seen a 12 week old bunny squeeze through the bars of a dog crate.) If using a plastic bottom cage: how often are you able to clean the bottom of the cage to prevent sore hocks, hutch burn, etc.? If using a wire bottom cage: Can the bunny's nails or toes become stuck in the width of the wire, is the wire sturdy and not sagging, and what will you put on the wire for a soft resting place? I use cardboard, plywood, baskets and plastic castles for my bunnies to rest on. Whatever you choose, just make sure it is working for you and your rabbit, and if you need a change, you can always start over... just don't give up on your rabbit!
*******UNDER CONSTRUCTION!*******
Bunny Rabbit Ownership for Newbies
Bunny Rabbit Ownership for Newbies
By, Kellie
Introduction
As a child, the most I ever saw of a rabbit was a dazzling purple “lucky” foot dangling stiffly from a backpack zipper-pull. Other than that, it was the rare sighting of a wild Jack rabbit or a bunny among chickens at a farm. Today, these fuzzy buck-toothed creatures are quickly gaining popularity as one of the newest domestic household pets as they hop their way into our hearts. However, as one of the newest members of the common household pet, they are the victim of many misconceptions. As a hobby rabbit breeder I am continuously asked these questions: Do bunnies bite? Can a rabbit be litter box trained? Will a bunny die if you hold it too much? Do rabbits really like carrots? Should a rabbit live in or outdoors? Let me answer these questions, while concurrently covering some essential bunny-care topics. The bunny in my examples will be a male.
Bringing Bunny Home
At 8 weeks of age a baby bunny has learned to drink and eat on his own; and his mother has likely thumped him right out of her life. This marks the time when you can take your sweet ball of fluff home. You may experience a few licks and nibbles on the ride home as your new pet grooms you in attempt to bond (he also may love the taste of your salty fingers). He may rub the bottom of his chin on your body to spread his scent. You can mimic this behavior: rubbing the bottom of your chin lightly upon your bunny’s head, and he will know he belongs to you. I wouldn’t, however, recommend licking your bunny… things could get a little hairy.
When you get the bunny home, it is best for him to be placed immediately in his cage or hutch so he can begin marking his territory. He will do this by peeing and pooping everywhere, spreading his scent all over his new home. This could last a few hours to a few weeks, but in time your rabbit will begin eliminating in one area, usually in a corner of his cage. This is where a litter pan can be placed. Yes: a rabbit can be litter box trained. I have used triangular litter pans filled with recycled paper pellets with much success.
Any time spent outside of his cage for the initial week or so at home should be spent in your arms or on your lap. The more you handle your bunny, the calmer he will become. No, a bunny will not die if held frequently. In fact, it is best if he is held a lot. If he is let loose before becoming comfortable with you, he may run and hide. In the case your bunny does get away from you, never chase him. Bunnies, like elephants, never forget. But more importantly, bunnies, as predatory animals, are able to give themselves a heart attack if they become terrified or fear for their lives. Instead, slowly and calmly get your bunny in a corner and then gently pick him up. At this point you can make the choice to either continue holding him, or return him to his cage.
Coming of Age: A Sudden But Temporary Change in Behavior
As any other animal, rabbits go through a transition period from baby to adult. Yes, your rabbit will go through puberty almost as fiercely as your teenage daughter (albeit tearlessly). Between the ages of 5 to 12 months, your rabbit’s natural inclination to produce young will intensify (this is especially true of females). At this time a rabbit becomes very territorial and may display mild aggression towards other rabbits and or people. This is the time your rabbit is most likely to grunt, growl, and thump and may even bite – this is especially true with a female rabbit.
To help your rabbit get through this transition period takes patience and understanding. Always talk in a sweet soft tone to let your bunny know you are there before reaching a hand into the cage to pick him up. When you do reach in, pet him if he lets you. If he is scurrying away, swiftly grasp your bunny by the skin on the nape of the neck, and carefully lift him to your body. Hold him securely, as he will likely struggle. His only two defenses are to kick and bite, so hold his mouth away from your body and allow his feet some wiggle space. If he should kick with all his might while fully restrained, he risks breaking his own leg. It is crucial that you do not startle, and drop your rabbit. If you must let him go, bend down and release him directly on to the floor. Dropping him could cause bone breakage, brain damage or death. The best way I have found to lessen cage aggression is by petting him while he is in his cage and then leaving him alone. Another way is to feed him a treat, like a carrot, and pet him as he munches away.
Nutrition, General Maintenance, Care and Lifespan
Yes rabbits love carrots, but they should be offered in limited quantities. By 12 weeks of age, 20% of your rabbit’s diet can consist of fresh vegetables and fruits such as: apple, orange, lime, carrot tops, carrot, banana, potato, parsley, cilantro, etc. These should be treats accompanied by a quality pellet food and fresh timothy hay offered daily. Alfalfa hay is too high in calcium and should be avoided, especially if you own a male rabbit. Broccoli, celery, and lettuce are also not healthy choices for rabbits.
Your rabbit’s cage or hutch should be large enough that he can lie fully stretched in any direction and stand all the way up on his hind legs without being restricted. The smallest recommended size for a dwarf breed rabbit cage is 24”L x 24”W x 18”H. There should be no gaps large enough for your bunny to escape or for predators to enter and the door(s) should have a latch. The bottom of the cage can be wire or solid material. Note: wood bottom cages can absorb bacteria and cause disease or infection, so use with the knowledge that your will need to clean the wood surface frequently with an abrasive brush or scrubber. In either case, the cage floor must be regularly disinfected and fully dried before returning the rabbit to the home. If using a wire bottom cage, the tray or floor beneath the cage must be diligently cleaned so as to keep down the ammonia smell. Breathing the pungent aroma of his own urine for long periods of time can cause Pneumonia or Pasturella in your rabbit: two diseases requiring medical attention. If using a solid bottom cage, the bedding must be changed regularly. A rabbit forced to live in his waste may become ill, and will likely develop hutch burn, fly trap or urine scald. Bleach solution, simple green and iodine solution are some great cleaning products for rabbit habitats.
Rabbits have a natural burrowing instinct. They love to scratch and dig! Using bedding, straw or pieces of plywood placed in your rabbit’s cage will satisfy this need. Also, providing a hiding place will help him feel more secure. Plastic castle hide-a-ways, shoe boxes and wooded hide-a-ways are convienent and common objects used in cages. Of course, you don’t want your bunny to just sit and hide. He needs plenty of exercise. After the initial transition period from his first home to yours, he should be allowed out of his cage for at least an hour a day to get exercise. Two hours is even better! He must always be supervised, as he will think your cords are roots and your carpet is grass. There are natural bitter apple sprays available to deter your rabbit from chewing cords; but supervision is never overrated. If your rabbit must spend most of his life in his cage, offering different levels and ramps can offer him some exercise. Toilet paper rolls, ping pong balls, and wooden blocks are great toys that will provide your rabbit with entertainment. Ultimately, his best source of exercise and entertainment should be spending time with his people!
You can house your rabbit indoors or outdoors. If you do have your rabbit inside, be prepared for daily cleaning, or it will get smelly. Be careful when using cleaning products and perfumes near his cage, as these can promote sneezing and allergies. Take note if he becomes startled with the noises of your household. If you notice he thumps and hides when you vacuum, you could consider putting a blanket over his cage during cleaning time to drown out some of the noise. Be sure to uncover his home promptly, as fresh air is essential! If your bunny is going to be housed outdoors, his home must be weather proof. A rabbit should never be exposed to direct sunlight, rain or high winds. He can endure below freezing temperatures with proper shelter, but never temperatures higher than 85 degrees Fahrenheit. On hot days, fans blowing above and below your rabbit’s hutch are effective in helping cool down the area. 2 liter bottles of frozen water should be placed in his cage for him to lie next to, as your bunny is incapable of cooling himself down. I use a variety of fans for air circulation, misters in front of the hutches (that do not spray the hutch or rabbit) to cool the air, burlap shades, as well as frozen bottles inside their hide-away spots. If exposed to heat, your bunny will get heatstroke and likely die. If you see his head tilted back, drool surrounding his mouth, erratic and uncontrolled running or seizures you can suspect heatstroke. Bring him inside immediately and submerge him (with his head above water) in room temperature water to cool his body down. Allow him to dry completely before returning him outside. If your rabbit experiences heat stroke, call your veterinarian!
A healthy rabbit can live 8-10+ years if well cared for, properly fed, and secured from predators. When choosing a rabbit if is important to pay attention to the ears, teeth and vent area. His ears should feel the same temperature as the rest of his body. Ears that are significantly warmer or cooler than the body indicate fever. Also, if there are any bites or tears (which can happen to the soft ear tissue) they should be free of any swelling, redness, discharge and scabbing. A rabbit should never be sold while requiring medical attention. The teeth should be bucked: top in front of bottom, and fully intact. The vent area (genitals) should be looked at to verify sex and good health. They should be pink in color, and free of swelling, redness, discharge, scabs and abrasions. Felling the bunny’s stomach to check for bloating, looking at his bottom for signs of diarrhea, and feeling his body to make sure he in not emaciated are also some great things to do when considering him as a pet.
Once home, there are a few common ways a rabbit will show you he is ill or injured. A rabbit will rarely voice their pain. The scream of a rabbit is a terrifying, and thankfully rarely made sound. He chooses to suffer in silence, so it is your job to observe him closely to ensure optimum health. Lethargy, diarrhea, fever, hiding in a corner, nose to a wall, yellow discharge from nose, rolling uncontrollably, darting eyes and a tilted head are warning signs of illness. If you observe any of these signs, take him to the vet.
Conclusion
The choice to bring a bunny into your life is very special, and not to be done with haste or lack of knowledge. A bunny is a daily commitment, and requires responsibility and attentiveness. Once the decision is made, you will not regret it. A happy bunny running, hopping and jumping high in the air is quite a sight. The love a bunny will display will no doubt put you in a state of awe.
His silly antics will have all your friends talking and giggling for days and years to come. Come on, don’t you want some bunny to love?
By, Kellie
Introduction
As a child, the most I ever saw of a rabbit was a dazzling purple “lucky” foot dangling stiffly from a backpack zipper-pull. Other than that, it was the rare sighting of a wild Jack rabbit or a bunny among chickens at a farm. Today, these fuzzy buck-toothed creatures are quickly gaining popularity as one of the newest domestic household pets as they hop their way into our hearts. However, as one of the newest members of the common household pet, they are the victim of many misconceptions. As a hobby rabbit breeder I am continuously asked these questions: Do bunnies bite? Can a rabbit be litter box trained? Will a bunny die if you hold it too much? Do rabbits really like carrots? Should a rabbit live in or outdoors? Let me answer these questions, while concurrently covering some essential bunny-care topics. The bunny in my examples will be a male.
Bringing Bunny Home
At 8 weeks of age a baby bunny has learned to drink and eat on his own; and his mother has likely thumped him right out of her life. This marks the time when you can take your sweet ball of fluff home. You may experience a few licks and nibbles on the ride home as your new pet grooms you in attempt to bond (he also may love the taste of your salty fingers). He may rub the bottom of his chin on your body to spread his scent. You can mimic this behavior: rubbing the bottom of your chin lightly upon your bunny’s head, and he will know he belongs to you. I wouldn’t, however, recommend licking your bunny… things could get a little hairy.
When you get the bunny home, it is best for him to be placed immediately in his cage or hutch so he can begin marking his territory. He will do this by peeing and pooping everywhere, spreading his scent all over his new home. This could last a few hours to a few weeks, but in time your rabbit will begin eliminating in one area, usually in a corner of his cage. This is where a litter pan can be placed. Yes: a rabbit can be litter box trained. I have used triangular litter pans filled with recycled paper pellets with much success.
Any time spent outside of his cage for the initial week or so at home should be spent in your arms or on your lap. The more you handle your bunny, the calmer he will become. No, a bunny will not die if held frequently. In fact, it is best if he is held a lot. If he is let loose before becoming comfortable with you, he may run and hide. In the case your bunny does get away from you, never chase him. Bunnies, like elephants, never forget. But more importantly, bunnies, as predatory animals, are able to give themselves a heart attack if they become terrified or fear for their lives. Instead, slowly and calmly get your bunny in a corner and then gently pick him up. At this point you can make the choice to either continue holding him, or return him to his cage.
Coming of Age: A Sudden But Temporary Change in Behavior
As any other animal, rabbits go through a transition period from baby to adult. Yes, your rabbit will go through puberty almost as fiercely as your teenage daughter (albeit tearlessly). Between the ages of 5 to 12 months, your rabbit’s natural inclination to produce young will intensify (this is especially true of females). At this time a rabbit becomes very territorial and may display mild aggression towards other rabbits and or people. This is the time your rabbit is most likely to grunt, growl, and thump and may even bite – this is especially true with a female rabbit.
To help your rabbit get through this transition period takes patience and understanding. Always talk in a sweet soft tone to let your bunny know you are there before reaching a hand into the cage to pick him up. When you do reach in, pet him if he lets you. If he is scurrying away, swiftly grasp your bunny by the skin on the nape of the neck, and carefully lift him to your body. Hold him securely, as he will likely struggle. His only two defenses are to kick and bite, so hold his mouth away from your body and allow his feet some wiggle space. If he should kick with all his might while fully restrained, he risks breaking his own leg. It is crucial that you do not startle, and drop your rabbit. If you must let him go, bend down and release him directly on to the floor. Dropping him could cause bone breakage, brain damage or death. The best way I have found to lessen cage aggression is by petting him while he is in his cage and then leaving him alone. Another way is to feed him a treat, like a carrot, and pet him as he munches away.
Nutrition, General Maintenance, Care and Lifespan
Yes rabbits love carrots, but they should be offered in limited quantities. By 12 weeks of age, 20% of your rabbit’s diet can consist of fresh vegetables and fruits such as: apple, orange, lime, carrot tops, carrot, banana, potato, parsley, cilantro, etc. These should be treats accompanied by a quality pellet food and fresh timothy hay offered daily. Alfalfa hay is too high in calcium and should be avoided, especially if you own a male rabbit. Broccoli, celery, and lettuce are also not healthy choices for rabbits.
Your rabbit’s cage or hutch should be large enough that he can lie fully stretched in any direction and stand all the way up on his hind legs without being restricted. The smallest recommended size for a dwarf breed rabbit cage is 24”L x 24”W x 18”H. There should be no gaps large enough for your bunny to escape or for predators to enter and the door(s) should have a latch. The bottom of the cage can be wire or solid material. Note: wood bottom cages can absorb bacteria and cause disease or infection, so use with the knowledge that your will need to clean the wood surface frequently with an abrasive brush or scrubber. In either case, the cage floor must be regularly disinfected and fully dried before returning the rabbit to the home. If using a wire bottom cage, the tray or floor beneath the cage must be diligently cleaned so as to keep down the ammonia smell. Breathing the pungent aroma of his own urine for long periods of time can cause Pneumonia or Pasturella in your rabbit: two diseases requiring medical attention. If using a solid bottom cage, the bedding must be changed regularly. A rabbit forced to live in his waste may become ill, and will likely develop hutch burn, fly trap or urine scald. Bleach solution, simple green and iodine solution are some great cleaning products for rabbit habitats.
Rabbits have a natural burrowing instinct. They love to scratch and dig! Using bedding, straw or pieces of plywood placed in your rabbit’s cage will satisfy this need. Also, providing a hiding place will help him feel more secure. Plastic castle hide-a-ways, shoe boxes and wooded hide-a-ways are convienent and common objects used in cages. Of course, you don’t want your bunny to just sit and hide. He needs plenty of exercise. After the initial transition period from his first home to yours, he should be allowed out of his cage for at least an hour a day to get exercise. Two hours is even better! He must always be supervised, as he will think your cords are roots and your carpet is grass. There are natural bitter apple sprays available to deter your rabbit from chewing cords; but supervision is never overrated. If your rabbit must spend most of his life in his cage, offering different levels and ramps can offer him some exercise. Toilet paper rolls, ping pong balls, and wooden blocks are great toys that will provide your rabbit with entertainment. Ultimately, his best source of exercise and entertainment should be spending time with his people!
You can house your rabbit indoors or outdoors. If you do have your rabbit inside, be prepared for daily cleaning, or it will get smelly. Be careful when using cleaning products and perfumes near his cage, as these can promote sneezing and allergies. Take note if he becomes startled with the noises of your household. If you notice he thumps and hides when you vacuum, you could consider putting a blanket over his cage during cleaning time to drown out some of the noise. Be sure to uncover his home promptly, as fresh air is essential! If your bunny is going to be housed outdoors, his home must be weather proof. A rabbit should never be exposed to direct sunlight, rain or high winds. He can endure below freezing temperatures with proper shelter, but never temperatures higher than 85 degrees Fahrenheit. On hot days, fans blowing above and below your rabbit’s hutch are effective in helping cool down the area. 2 liter bottles of frozen water should be placed in his cage for him to lie next to, as your bunny is incapable of cooling himself down. I use a variety of fans for air circulation, misters in front of the hutches (that do not spray the hutch or rabbit) to cool the air, burlap shades, as well as frozen bottles inside their hide-away spots. If exposed to heat, your bunny will get heatstroke and likely die. If you see his head tilted back, drool surrounding his mouth, erratic and uncontrolled running or seizures you can suspect heatstroke. Bring him inside immediately and submerge him (with his head above water) in room temperature water to cool his body down. Allow him to dry completely before returning him outside. If your rabbit experiences heat stroke, call your veterinarian!
A healthy rabbit can live 8-10+ years if well cared for, properly fed, and secured from predators. When choosing a rabbit if is important to pay attention to the ears, teeth and vent area. His ears should feel the same temperature as the rest of his body. Ears that are significantly warmer or cooler than the body indicate fever. Also, if there are any bites or tears (which can happen to the soft ear tissue) they should be free of any swelling, redness, discharge and scabbing. A rabbit should never be sold while requiring medical attention. The teeth should be bucked: top in front of bottom, and fully intact. The vent area (genitals) should be looked at to verify sex and good health. They should be pink in color, and free of swelling, redness, discharge, scabs and abrasions. Felling the bunny’s stomach to check for bloating, looking at his bottom for signs of diarrhea, and feeling his body to make sure he in not emaciated are also some great things to do when considering him as a pet.
Once home, there are a few common ways a rabbit will show you he is ill or injured. A rabbit will rarely voice their pain. The scream of a rabbit is a terrifying, and thankfully rarely made sound. He chooses to suffer in silence, so it is your job to observe him closely to ensure optimum health. Lethargy, diarrhea, fever, hiding in a corner, nose to a wall, yellow discharge from nose, rolling uncontrollably, darting eyes and a tilted head are warning signs of illness. If you observe any of these signs, take him to the vet.
Conclusion
The choice to bring a bunny into your life is very special, and not to be done with haste or lack of knowledge. A bunny is a daily commitment, and requires responsibility and attentiveness. Once the decision is made, you will not regret it. A happy bunny running, hopping and jumping high in the air is quite a sight. The love a bunny will display will no doubt put you in a state of awe.
His silly antics will have all your friends talking and giggling for days and years to come. Come on, don’t you want some bunny to love?