Hopscotch Buns
Sales Policy
*I charge $60+ for my Holland Lops; price is firm. This price includes a full rabbit pedigree, a small baggie of food to transition them to the food of your choice, hay, deworming treatment(Ivomec), nail trimming, and optional bath/blow dry. Please do not let my low price be mistaken for a low quality rabbit. This is never the case, I just happen to only charge the amount I need to put back into my rabbitry.
*All sales are final. That said, please do contact me if you are unsatisfied with your bunny, I may have a bunny to exchange it with, but I cannot guarantee it. Please continue reading.
*I have the right to terminate a sale without reason at anytime. If I choose to do so, you will be notified.
* I no longer require holding deposits. I no longer offer a 48 hour inquiry hold either. If you are interested in a specific bunny, I will set up a time for you to come see it. At that time, we will arrange a pick up date and your bunny will be held here until the date we have agreed upon. If you become unable to pick up your rabbit, contact me before the pick up date to reschedule. If you fail to communicate with me, the bunny will be put back up for sale immediately.
*I will keep a few of my babies, but I share their photos on the sale page. If I have chosen to keep a bunny, or am still in deciding mode I will note beneath it's picture that I am watching or keeping it.
*I do not offer any discounts at this time. Please know all bunny money is put right back into creating and improving the herd's habitat. (Rabbit expenses include: feed, hay, housing, hutch building supplies, medications, rabbit education literature, water bottles, crocks, replacement tools, lighting, temperature and humidity controlling supplies, vet visits, educational literature, flooring, etc.)
*No bunny will leave my home until fully weaned.
*I am not a veteranarian or medical professional of any kind, and therefore do not offer a warranty on my bunnies for health or any
other reasons. I do guarantee they will be in optimum health to the best of my knowledge and ability at time of purchase. If a health issue should arise please call your vet, and then contact me. The health of my herd effects the health of yours, so I want to be only providing the healthiest buns! e-mail me: [email protected]
*While I am 99% accurate when sexing bunnies, I will not exchange your rabbit should he/she turn out to be the opposite of the sex I determined at the time of purchase. Please do your own research on how to sex your bunny. If you should get the wrong sex written on your pedigree, I will rewrite the rabbit pedigree to make it accurate.
*I cannot guarantee your bunny will win on the show table, but I will ensure, to the best of my ability, that a rabbit purchased for show purposes will be free of disqualifications. Again, this is to the best of my knowledge, so you’ll have to do your own research as well.
*I do not offer refunds for purchased bunnies. I do not offer exchanges of rabbits and bunnies (but I am happy to give a home to any rabbit from Hopscotch Buns if your family has to get rid of it - I will not buy it back, but will foster it until a home is found by me or you). I am not responsible for, nor can I control what happens to a bunny once it leaves my home. I can offer advice and resources if notified of any questions, complications, etc. You should always take your bunny to a vet if you have any serious concerns. Loomis Basin is one animal hospital I know regularly sees rabbits.
*I am located in Citrus Heights, CA. I DO NOT SHIP OR DELIVER. Buyers must pick up their bunnies.
*I really love my bunnies, and for this reason may refuse a sale without explination if I feel someone is not a sutible owner. I want my buns going to great homes, because here they have that and more. If I make the decision to terminate a sale, I will notify you immediately.
*If you are not going to breed your bunny I recommend SPAYING/NEUTERING your pet. She/He will have a longer, healthier life.
*ALWAYS check the ears, teeth, and vent area of any bunny or rabbit you purchase before taking it home! Also look for signs of illness or injury, such as: abcesses, lethargy, bloated belly, goopy eyes, darting eyes (this is different that the scanning a nervous rabbit will do, slightly swaying it's head as it scans it's new environment), limping, grinding teeth, sores, hutch burn, scabs, runny nose, head tilted to the side, drooling or extended neck are some good indications the rabbit is not in good condition. I also strongly suggest you look around the rabbitry you have chosen to buy your rabbit from. The conditions in which a bunny is born and raised can be a good indication of it's health and quality of life.
*I value honesty and integrity in every aspect of my professional and personal life. I hope you will see that in doing business with me and offer the same in exchange.
I FEED:
Purina Complete Rabbit Chow
I will send each bunny with a small baggy of food. If you change food, mix the current pellets with what you buy 50/50 to avoid stomach upset and diarrhea. If stools are soft, add dry oatmeal to the pellets (50/50) until poops are solid again.
Timothy hay/orchard grass mix offered daily and removed from cage if soiled.
Limited treats such as: apples, cilantro, carrot tops, cranberries, lime, banana, parsley, potato, wheat grass after 12 weeks of age. Never broccoli, as it can kill your bunny!
My bunnies use both crocks and ball lick water bottles. Make sure your bunny is drinking water! Offer another method of watering if you see their water isn’t being consumed. Dehydration is life threatening to rabbits!
I frequently add 1 Tbsp. of apple cider vinegar / 2 gal. water, or a slice of lime to the rabbits water bottles to help with digestion.
Thank you for doing business - please visit my contact page!
Sales Policy
*I charge $60+ for my Holland Lops; price is firm. This price includes a full rabbit pedigree, a small baggie of food to transition them to the food of your choice, hay, deworming treatment(Ivomec), nail trimming, and optional bath/blow dry. Please do not let my low price be mistaken for a low quality rabbit. This is never the case, I just happen to only charge the amount I need to put back into my rabbitry.
*All sales are final. That said, please do contact me if you are unsatisfied with your bunny, I may have a bunny to exchange it with, but I cannot guarantee it. Please continue reading.
*I have the right to terminate a sale without reason at anytime. If I choose to do so, you will be notified.
* I no longer require holding deposits. I no longer offer a 48 hour inquiry hold either. If you are interested in a specific bunny, I will set up a time for you to come see it. At that time, we will arrange a pick up date and your bunny will be held here until the date we have agreed upon. If you become unable to pick up your rabbit, contact me before the pick up date to reschedule. If you fail to communicate with me, the bunny will be put back up for sale immediately.
*I will keep a few of my babies, but I share their photos on the sale page. If I have chosen to keep a bunny, or am still in deciding mode I will note beneath it's picture that I am watching or keeping it.
*I do not offer any discounts at this time. Please know all bunny money is put right back into creating and improving the herd's habitat. (Rabbit expenses include: feed, hay, housing, hutch building supplies, medications, rabbit education literature, water bottles, crocks, replacement tools, lighting, temperature and humidity controlling supplies, vet visits, educational literature, flooring, etc.)
*No bunny will leave my home until fully weaned.
*I am not a veteranarian or medical professional of any kind, and therefore do not offer a warranty on my bunnies for health or any
other reasons. I do guarantee they will be in optimum health to the best of my knowledge and ability at time of purchase. If a health issue should arise please call your vet, and then contact me. The health of my herd effects the health of yours, so I want to be only providing the healthiest buns! e-mail me: [email protected]
*While I am 99% accurate when sexing bunnies, I will not exchange your rabbit should he/she turn out to be the opposite of the sex I determined at the time of purchase. Please do your own research on how to sex your bunny. If you should get the wrong sex written on your pedigree, I will rewrite the rabbit pedigree to make it accurate.
*I cannot guarantee your bunny will win on the show table, but I will ensure, to the best of my ability, that a rabbit purchased for show purposes will be free of disqualifications. Again, this is to the best of my knowledge, so you’ll have to do your own research as well.
*I do not offer refunds for purchased bunnies. I do not offer exchanges of rabbits and bunnies (but I am happy to give a home to any rabbit from Hopscotch Buns if your family has to get rid of it - I will not buy it back, but will foster it until a home is found by me or you). I am not responsible for, nor can I control what happens to a bunny once it leaves my home. I can offer advice and resources if notified of any questions, complications, etc. You should always take your bunny to a vet if you have any serious concerns. Loomis Basin is one animal hospital I know regularly sees rabbits.
*I am located in Citrus Heights, CA. I DO NOT SHIP OR DELIVER. Buyers must pick up their bunnies.
*I really love my bunnies, and for this reason may refuse a sale without explination if I feel someone is not a sutible owner. I want my buns going to great homes, because here they have that and more. If I make the decision to terminate a sale, I will notify you immediately.
*If you are not going to breed your bunny I recommend SPAYING/NEUTERING your pet. She/He will have a longer, healthier life.
*ALWAYS check the ears, teeth, and vent area of any bunny or rabbit you purchase before taking it home! Also look for signs of illness or injury, such as: abcesses, lethargy, bloated belly, goopy eyes, darting eyes (this is different that the scanning a nervous rabbit will do, slightly swaying it's head as it scans it's new environment), limping, grinding teeth, sores, hutch burn, scabs, runny nose, head tilted to the side, drooling or extended neck are some good indications the rabbit is not in good condition. I also strongly suggest you look around the rabbitry you have chosen to buy your rabbit from. The conditions in which a bunny is born and raised can be a good indication of it's health and quality of life.
*I value honesty and integrity in every aspect of my professional and personal life. I hope you will see that in doing business with me and offer the same in exchange.
I FEED:
Purina Complete Rabbit Chow
I will send each bunny with a small baggy of food. If you change food, mix the current pellets with what you buy 50/50 to avoid stomach upset and diarrhea. If stools are soft, add dry oatmeal to the pellets (50/50) until poops are solid again.
Timothy hay/orchard grass mix offered daily and removed from cage if soiled.
Limited treats such as: apples, cilantro, carrot tops, cranberries, lime, banana, parsley, potato, wheat grass after 12 weeks of age. Never broccoli, as it can kill your bunny!
My bunnies use both crocks and ball lick water bottles. Make sure your bunny is drinking water! Offer another method of watering if you see their water isn’t being consumed. Dehydration is life threatening to rabbits!
I frequently add 1 Tbsp. of apple cider vinegar / 2 gal. water, or a slice of lime to the rabbits water bottles to help with digestion.
Thank you for doing business - please visit my contact page!